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Virginia Beach a delightful diner's paradise
Dining Delights
By Margo Oxendine, Staff Writer
VIRGINIA BEACH - It's summer. You're headed to the beach. Yippeee!
Think about it: There's really no reason to fight traffic all the way to Nags Head or, for heaven's sake, Myrtle, when you can fight traffic for just five hours to Virginia Beach.
And fight traffic you will. But, we won't focus on that just now.
Once you get to the shore and the sun and the sand and the surf, you're bound to be hungry.
Where to eat?
Here's the big secret about Virginia Beach: There are really just two places you need to go. Believe me, the dining delights queen; I've tried lots and lots of beacharea restaurants. And I've narrowed it down to two: The Belvedere Diner, and Rockafellers.
For breakfast or lunch, get yourself to the little diner attached to the Belvedere Motel at 36th and Atlantic. Be prepared to wait, if you must; this little spot is hot, hot, hot with locals. And, who knows where the best food is? Locals, of course. Tourists, perhaps, disregard this narrow spot with just five and a half booths, and fewer than 10 counter stools. That's their mistake, and those of us in the know about the Belvedere are quite happy for this. It means we'll be seated more quickly, and can begin the difficult task of choosing just what we're hungry for.
My personal favorite - and I begin thinking about it as I'm loading my bags for the trip - is the Eye Opener. A fried egg, two slices of crisp bacon, tomatoes with melted parmesan cheese, atop a fresh onion roll. Ah yes, a "heart attack on a plate," but what a way to go. The hash browns are crispy brown on the outside, and sweet and soft inside - why can't other restaurants learn this culinary trick?
Here's something that's difficult to find these days, and oh, so tasty: Corned beef hash and perfectly done eggs. I was way past delighted to discover last weekend's Saturday Special: a Monte Cristo sandwich (ham and swiss buried inside French toast, with a strawberry/orange marmalade).
There are plenty of lunch-type sandwiches, too. At the Belvedere, even the simple hot dog is delectable - grilled, then popped into a grilled, flat bun.
Did I mention that the Belvedere Diner sits right on the boardwalk, overlooking the beach? Sit there waiting for your breakfast, and watch dolphins frolic in the surf, runners pace past the window (don't let them see your perfect pancakes!), bicyclists - both seasoned, and shaky, riding the designated path - and a broad cross-section of humanity enjoying a walk or ride or skate in the sunshine. If you're really lucky, you'll see a phalanx of 50 or so hunky Marines running in formation; sometimes, they're carrying guns. Admit it - we're not likely to see something like that around here, and isn't that one reason we go to the beach, to see the sights? Talk about an "eye opener" - a team of 40 gorgeous Secret Service agents in short shorts does it for me. (There's plenty of eye candy for you fellows to enjoy, too).
If nothing else, you can watch the intricate ballet being choreographed behind the counter, as six waitresses, cooks and dishwashers go about their duties in perfect sync, all in a space about three feet wide and 30 feet long.
You won't find the Belvedere Diner on a website, and there's no reason to call them on the phone. They're open from 7 a.m. until 2:30 every afternoon, day in and day out, year around. It's always bustling - I've had to wait for a seat in February. Just show up hungry, and leave with a satisfied smile on your face.
(A word about the Belvedere Motel: I almost hate to give away my wonderful secret place to stay. Small, quiet, friendly, sparkly clean, pleasantly decorated, the only motel I've found on the beach with screens on the balcony doors, free bicycles, reasonable rates, open April through October. That's all I'm saying; you'll have to find the number for yourself.)
OK. So, breakfast and/or lunch are taken care of; what's for dinner? You can choose from hundreds of restaurants at Virginia Beach, many of them along the boardwalk, many of them with loads of seafood on the menu, and delicious umbrella drinks. I've tried many in my decades of beach visits. But there's really just one restaurant for me: Rockafellers.
Every friend I spend time at the beach with has been introduced to Rockafellers. And now, none of them can bring themselves to dine anywhere else, either. What does that tell you?
Rockafellers sits on Rudee's Inlet, at the foot of Mediterranean Avenue. If you know anything about the beach, you know that the ocean streets run north-south. There's Atlantic, right on the ocean; then Pacific, then Arctic, then Baltic, then Mediterranean. Rockafellers is easy to find, and even easier to love.
There is a seemingly-similar restaurant nearby, named after the inlet. I've tried it several times, and the nicest thing I can say is, "It ain't Rockafellers."
There's valet parking at "The Rock," so you're not inching around in a jam of cars, full of hungry folks. Just pull into Rockafellers, hand your car over to a polite valet, and head inside. The place is full of friendly staff and friendly customers. I cannot count the times I've dined alone at the bar there, and left with lots of new and interesting acquaintances. There are staff there who actually remember me when I make my semi-annual foray; for a place that serves tens of thousands of diners year around, that alone is remarkable.
Again, wondering what I will eat is no question to ponder. This, too, I know as I am loading my car at home: Jumbo Lump Crab Norfolk. It's nothing but truly jumbo lump crabmeat, floating in a dish of butter. (I can hear you now, but don't bug me.) It's nothing but fabulous. Douse it with remoulade or aioli sauce, and it's even better. I know, I can hardly believe it, either.
The Caesar salad at Rockafellers is the best I've had anywhere - perfectly laced with lots of garlic, parmesan and house-made croutons.
On Thursday nights - and believe me folks, this is reason enough to get to the beach a day early - there's a "secret" special: Lobster. Last Thursday, friends and I charged into Rockafellers with one thing in mind: Not one, but two lobsters. I'm talking tails and claws and all, sitting there on a huge platter, ready for you to dig in and be delighted. The price was astounding: Less than $30. The experience was memorable. Funny, the lobster wasn't on the menu, or the "specials" blackboard, yet it graced almost every table in the house.
While at the beach for three nights, we availed ourselves of seared ahi tuna appetizers, fresh calamari (again, with that yummy aioli sauce), the "ultimate platter" of assorted fresh seafood, oysters Rockefeller (naturally), and even, on our third and last night, a dessert sampler platter of homemade coconut cake, key lime pie, chocolate mousse, and a rum-soaked cake, the name (but not taste) of which I've forgotten.
We dined early every evening, arriving about 6 o'clock, since we had a darling, well-behaved four-month-old with us. This was oh so smart. By the time we'd leave the restaurant, about 7:30 or 8, there would be a line waiting out the door.
The dining room is enveloped by floor-to-ceiling windows, looking out over the inlet, and the fishing boats moored in the marina. Sea gulls swooped past, the setting sun filled the sky with lavender and pink light, and all the world seemed rosy. And delicious.
For more info on Rockafellers, visit www.rockafellers. com.
I apologize for having taken no photographs at Rockafellers or the Belvedere Diner. I was on vacation, and busy eating!
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